This will make sure that your extrusion temperature is set correctly so that you are able to bridge sort distances without support without sagging or delamination of the layers. it's a technical term lol) so I know that if my angle is greater than a 60 degree overhang I will need to include supports in the print to make sure I get a good quality printīridging test - These are the assorted length bridges (4mm-22mm) in the center of the print between the two overhang tests. If you look closely at the picture of the backside of the arm you will see that it is not until after 60 degrees that the print starts to get ripply (yep. The arms print at increasing angles of overhang from 10 to 80 degrees. Overhang test - These are the two arms curving up and over the print. "Just prints the test pattern without leveling so you can check if your bed has shifted" After stopping at each corner twice, it will print several skirts around the bed (you can continue to adjust height as needed as the skirts print), then a disc in each corner and a disc in the middle to check adhesion." Push the button on the printer after testing each corner (the printer says something like "waiting for user") to go on to the next corner. The GCODE will stop at each corner, pausing so you can adjust the leveling knobs. "Stick the GCODE on the SD card and have a sheet of paper ready. It is a quick test, taking only a few minutes to run. It is a simple test that prints 3 passes around the perimeter of the bed and then it prints a filled circle at each of the corners as well as the center of the bed. Too close together and your nozzle will crash into your print and wreck it. Too far away and you will not get proper layer adhesion. To properly space your bed away from your nozzle, you want them close enough together that when you have a single sheet of paper between the bed and nozzle there should be a slight amount of friction when you try to move the paper. Turning the knob to the left raises the bed towards the print nozzle, turning it to the right lowers the bed. There are 4 knobs, one on each corner of the bed, that will raise and lower that corner. Once the printer is assembled the next vital step is to make sure the bed is level in relation to the print head. Ender 3 v2 ultimaker cura settings free#If you want to use different test prints feel free to look around, there are lots of options. I do not have affiliation with any of these authors (except myself lol), I am simply providing access to the files I used to set up my printer. I will be linking to a bunch of different 3D print files that I found on Thingiverse. Ender 3 v2 ultimaker cura settings manual#Sorry that I did not take pictures of the assembly process, but the process is straight forward and the images in the instruction manual are easy to understand. Once that is completed, you only have a few more bolts to tighten up and a couple of wires to plug in and your printer is ready to start printing. The gantry will control the X (left and right) and Z (up and down) axis movement. Then you connect the gantry arm to the uprights. Once you unpack everything you will need to attach the uprights to the base. Fortunately several decades of assembling Lego kits served me well in figuring out what needed to be done. The instructions that come with the printer do not have words, just pictures. To finish putting the printer together will require connecting the remaining parts to the base using less than 2 dozen bolts, and then plugging up a few wires to the various motors. The base of the printer containing the print bed and the Y axis (back and forth) control as well as most of the wiring are already assembled before leaving the factory. Ender 3 v2 ultimaker cura settings pro#The Ender 3 Pro comes partially assembled.
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